Reaching the Peak

It’s been too long since my last blog. COVID drags on seemingly indefinitely. Everything seems stuck in quicksand. Politics is stale; Boris Johnson’s woeful government is still popular with the British electorate who seem to have forgotten the brave new world promised by Brexit. Instead, all the promises that have failed to materialise are blamed on COVID rather than exposed for the pack of lies that they were. Voters do not seem to appreciate the irony of reckless spending by the ‘socialist’ Labour party having being triumphantly beaten by careful Tories! Stop and consider how many of Jeremy Corbyn’s ‘insane’ spending pledges have been adopted by BJ’s government. Sadly, I have given up on British people. They seem to be dreaming of Trump getting back in power and re-igniting his love affair with Boris before leading the world into a devastating war. Of course, it won’t be their fault!

Since I started to write this piece we have been hit by a shortage of lorry drivers which ‘threatens Christmas’. This rapidly escalated to a crisis when fuel deliveries to petrol stations erupted into panic buying and even fights breaking out in queues. The Government performed it’s now customary about turn offering more visas to foreign workers (the ones Brexit promised to rid us of) Within a couple of days, the Christmas deadline was further extended when insufficient numbers took up the offer. The press in Russia and Germany are taking great delight in poking fun at Britain.

It is a sign of the times that public support for the government remains strong and has not made the slightest difference in opinion polls. Kier Starmer has many qualities but I’m afraid he does not have the personality or presence to win a General election. Andy Burnham is popular with people and offers the best chance of Labour forming a government, unless David Milliband could be persuaded to come back!!

We should reflect that twenty years ago, the most devastating terrorist act of all time took place on 9/11. Twenty years on and trillions of dollars spent on wars, the world still feels a dangerous, divided planet. I have written before about conspiracy theories and the fact that perhaps, it is better that the official version of events is accepted. I still, however, am troubled that the BBC announced the collapse of building 7 of the World trade centre half an hour before it happened!

Since all restrictions were lifted in July, Pat and I have emerged blinking from our Walney Island  sanctuary and ventured forth into the wider world. There have been a couple of visits to our beloved Liverpool and a visit to Caitlin’s new drum in Ormskirk. We are still to see any bands but as more tours are announced I’m sure we will remedy that.

For the second year running COVID put paid to our planned visit to the USA. Instead, we booked a week in the Peak district. We rented a cottage in the village of Duffield, 5 miles North of Derby.

We stopped en route in Biddulph, a small town some 10 miles North of Stoke in order to walk the dog and pick up a few essentials. There was a small market in the town centre where I purchased 3 bottles of beer from the Flash brewery based in Buxton. Full marks, all three were excellent, try them if you get chance.

The cottage we rented was fantastic. Plenty of room, spotlessly clean and a short walk from the pub!

The first pub we tried was the King’s Head. First impressions were good, Timothy Taylors Landlord on tap and table service. Prices were steep and the clientele seemed pretentious. We left and walked to the Town Street Tap. This was a small place that didn’t look that promising however an old guy out for a smoke told me that is served the best beer in the village. They served three or four real ales and the same number of Craft beers plus some real ciders. C&C arrived with the dog and we enjoyed a few beers in a laid back atmosphere. We tried the White Star which was the nearest pub to our cottage. They served Landlord and had a great beer garden so a good night was had by all.

It was our first visit to this part of the country so we were looking forward to a journey of discovery. On the Saturday morning we dropped Caitlin and Callum off at Derby station as they were off to the Slam Dunk festival in Leeds. We headed for Sherwood Forest. I loved the Robin Hood story when I was a young boy and read many books and watched any tv series or film about this pioneering socialist hero. It was fantastic! The weather was glorious and I was transported back to my childhood. We gazed in awe at the Major Oak. According to local folklore, it was Robin Hood’s shelter where he and his merry men slept. It weighs an estimated 23 tons, has a girth of 33 feet (10 metres), a canopy of 92 feet (28 metres), and is about 800–1000 years old. The oak is now in need of a tree zimmer frame but I guess it’s only to be expected at that age! There were many fellow dog walkers and families enjoying the forest and many stopped to exchange pleasantries. It was an ambition fulfilled for me and it certainly didn’t disappoint. We had breakfast at the café when we arrived which was superb. As we finished our walk a game was just starting at Sherwood cricket club and it was nice to watch for a while. There is nothing more civilised or English as a village cricket match. On the way back to Duffield we stopped in Belper, a couple of miles from home. This little town sure loves steep fucking hills which I for one didn’t really appreciate. I was eager to checkout Groove records and supplement my collection. They had some great records on sale but at prices that would make a billionaire take a sharp intake of breath. Needless to say I departed empty handed.

We drove to Leeds later in the evening to pick C&C up from the festival. Even though I’m too old for Slam Dunk it was fantastic watching thousands of young people coming away looking like they’d had a great day.

On Sunday we thought we’d visit Matlock Bath in the afternoon. Big mistake !!! It was absolutely heaving. We drove up and down but couldn’t get a parking space anywhere near. I’ve never seen as many motorbikes. The town resembled Sturgis, South Dakota in August. The Derbyshire Hells Angels were more like the Black Widows from Every which way but loose than The Sons of Anarchy but please take that as a compliment because they were a friendly bunch. The place is too much like a seaside town for me, all tourist shops and cafes. What did come as a bit of a shock were the number of people queuing for fish and chips at the many cafes and takeaways. Perhaps living on the coast makes chippies something that we take for granted. We took the dog for a pleasant walk along the riverside and I made a mental note to return to try out the cable car. In the evening Pat and I went to the Viceroy, an Indian restaurant in the village. The meal and the service were superb. We stopped off in the Kings Head en route and I started to warm to it a little.

Monday saw us visit Bakewell. A little town with a big reputation partly due to the pudding/tart to which it gives its name. Man it was fucking busy. It was market day and it seemed like the whole of England was visiting. The weather was glorious which probably attracted people as well. The market was OK, stallholders were friendly but it was too crowded for relaxed browsing. We walked around the town which allowed me to visit Green Man records. Like the place in Belper it had a decent selection but at laughable prices. Once again I departed empty handed now feeling sorry for Derbyshire’s record collectors who are getting ripped off when compared against other areas.

I bought a Bakewell pudding for £7…………….Seven fucking quid!!!!!!!!

On Tuesday we visited Chesterfield. The town is famous for the crooked spire on the Church of St. Mary and all Saints. The aforementioned church led to Chesterfield F.C being named the Spirites.

The main reason for visiting Chesterfield was to checkout Tallbird records. Below is taken from the website;

Tallbird Record Shop was set up by me, Maria Harris, in 2013.  Having just turned 50, I wanted a new challenge, and to get back into work after years of being a housewife and bringing up children.

I’d worked in music retail for most of my adult life (with a short detour into the cinema industry in my 30s) – Richard’s Records in Canterbury, Beggars Banquet in Kingston-Upon-Thames, Alto in Carnaby Street and as a product manager for the Virgin Megastore chain.

When we moved to Chesterfield in 2006 there were two shops selling music – HMV and Hudsons, but 6 years later both had sadly closed down leaving the town without a record shop, a lamentable state of affairs which I felt had to be put right.

I took a leap of faith in the Summer of 2013 by signing the lease on 10 Soresby Street, the ideal premises for my little shop, tucked up a cobbled side street but just round the corner from the old Hudson’s shop and a stone’s throw from the Market Square.  After weeks of agonizing I finally settled on a name for the business (yes, I am a tall bird!) and sketched out an idea which my clever old graphic designer Dad turned into the shop’s logo.



At last, an excellent records shop! Great selection with fair prices. I bagged a copy of Crosby, Stills and Nash debut album in great condition, Four way street by CSNY, Into the purple valley by Ry Cooder and Let it Bleed by the Stones. When I went to pay, the guy told me that the sticker on the CSNY album meant that it was not in top condition. He thought it would play fine after a clean but encouraged me to inspect the vinyl, and if I was not happy, put it back in the rack. Great service which was much appreciated. When I got home the album played fine.
We walked around the town and both liked it. Not pretentious and friendly. The market square is cobbled and very large. Tuesday was not market day so we contented ourselves with a visit to the cheese shop near the indoor market. We bought a great selection at decent prices. We also visited a bakery where I bought a Bakewell Tart that was much better than the one from the town from which it gets its name! (less than half the price as well). On the way back we stopped off at an Antiques place in Belper that I noticed advertising records for sale. I picked up Sabotage by Black Sabbath, The Kick Inside by Kate Bush, Get right intae him by Billy Connolly and War of the worlds by Jeff Wayne. All were fairly priced and in decent nick. A good day for music, a bad one for my wallet!
We dined al fresco at the White Hart in the evening. It was a good meal and the warm weather and cold beer made for a pleasant night.

We returned to Matlock Bath on Wednesday to try out The Heights of Abraham. This is a tourist attraction that  consists of a hilltop park on top of Masson Hill, accessed from the village by either the Heights of Abraham cable car or a steep zig-zag path (fuck that). The heights are named after a supposed resemblance to the Plains of Abraham, also known as the Heights of Abraham, in Quebec, Canada, where James Wolfe died in battle.[1][2]

Amongst the attractions in the park, which has been open since Victorian times, are cavern and mine tours. There are also views of the dramatic scenery of the valley of the River Derwent. The cable car was opened in 1984 to provide easier access.

Pat doesn’t like heights so it required great bravery for her to get in the cable car. The dog was fine once he was in. Everything was fine until the car stops half way up (about 600 ft) for folk to take photos. Pat’s face assumed a deathly pallor and she leapt from the car when it eventually reached the summit. It was a glorious day and the views were spectacular. There is a café and restaurant but a nice walk and breathing the cool, clean air was more than enough.

When we got back down I really appreciated how clean the air was at the top as it was now hot and muggy in the town. We stopped at a biker café for a coffee. There were 3 leather clad behemoths at the next table with their impressive hogs parked kerbside. They were all nice guys who gave us good advice about other places to try. We took a walk to the Bridge Inn, a pub with a beer garden overlooking the River Derwent. Director’s bitter was on offer and mighty fine it was too. We dined al fresco once again. Good food and beer in a fantastic setting.

A visit to the Town street Tap followed. I grew really fond of this small pub. The beer and cider were really good and the staff very friendly. As with all the pubs, dogs are welcome and there was always a bowl of water and a few treats provided. There is no TV in the Tap and no music. The art of conversation thrives in this corner of the world

Remus enjoying the craic in the Tap

On our last day in Derbyshire we visited Dovedale. This is a valley cut by the River Dove that is about 3 miles long. The land is owned by the National Trust and is apparently a very popular walk. I’m glad we went early as there were many people heading out as we were on our way back. The walk is really good with great views. The big ticket there is the stepping stones across the river. You have to do it. It’s like a rural Abbey Road zebra crossing. Everyone pauses in the middle to be photographed which causes big traffic jams! We resisted the photo opportunity but did cross the river via the Stones on both the outward and inward walks.

On the way back to our cottage we stopped at Croots farm shop which several locals had recommended. A great place where I duly spent a fortune. I’m pleased to report that everything we bought tasted great.

We visited The Bridge Inn, The Town street Tap and the White Star on our last evening in Duffield. The Tap is definitely on my favourite pub lists.

Duffield was a really friendly place. Locals stopped to pass the time of day with us tourists and gave us great advice about places to visit. In fact, everywhere we went over the week was full of friendly, helpful locals. I lost count of people who stopped to swap Beagle stories as we walked Remus.

I would happily return to the Peak district. We didn’t visit Derby or Nottingham and didn’t make it to Buxton. I would have liked to visit Bolsover as I loved its former MP Dennis Skinner. The Beast of Bolsover as he was known was one of the last truly in it for his constituents’ politicians whose passing makes the House of Commons a drearier place.

I mentioned earlier that we made a couple of trips to our beloved Liverpool. I added a few more pubs to my growing list of great places to drink. We stopped in at the Lady of Mann on Dale street. This pub is named after the eponymous Manx ferry which was built at the Vickers shipyard in Barrow in Furness. They sell Okell’s beer from the Isle of Mann and it was good to sit outside in the courtyard on a warm evening. We walked to the other end of Dale street to visit the Ship and Mitre which is a paradise for beer lovers as it serves a good range of real ales and craft beers. I fulfilled an ambition and ate at Bakchich, a Lebanese restaurant on Bold Street. I’ve been meaning to visit for years but it has always been full or we’ve had other plans. It didn’t disappoint even if it does only sell non-alcoholic drinks! We stopped in at the Pilgrim on Pilgrim street on our way to Ye Crack. We have walked past this place a few times as it doesn’t look too appealing from the outside. How wrong can one be? Caitlin had urged us to visit and it was a good tip. It’s a great pub, friendly patrons and good beer. What more can you ask?

I could write about Liverpool pubs all day long (I certainly can drink all day in them!) I’ll just have to give a shout out to one more. I noticed The Dispensary on Renshaw street on my way to 81 Renshaw street, a record shop. We nipped in for a pint after a spot of vinyl foraging. It had a good selection of beers and was a relaxing place to plan the day ahead. There are some scabrous reviews of this pub on TripAdvisor. We had no bother, you can only take a place as you find it I guess.

We visited Strawberry Fields, another ambition of mine since I read about the exhibition opening. It is OK. I learned a lot about the Salvation Army, saw the piano that Lennon played on Imagine and watched a few interesting documentary clips. We walked around the gardens where Lennon played as a kid. The original house is no more which left me feeling ever so slightly cheated. The garden is OK, nothing to get too excited about. The main attraction I guess are the iconic red gates. You can park outside and see them from the outside without paying the steep admission fee. I’m glad I saw the exhibition but must admit that it was the gates I wanted to see.

Next time we’re in Liverpool I am determined to see the Penny Lane street sign. A bunch of us are there in December so I hope to make it happen.

When I was planning our trip to the Peak district I googled Derbyshire musicians. Kevin Coyne was the only result returned. I like Kevin’s music and many influential musicians have described themselves as Coyne fans, among them Sting and John Lydon. In the mid-1970s, prior to the formation of the Police, Coyne’s band included guitarist Andy Summers. Prominent BBC disc jockey and world music authority Andy Kershaw described Coyne as “a national treasure who keeps getting better” and as one of the great British blues voices. Kevin Coyne died in 2004 and had lived in Germany since the 1980’s. I wondered whether this lack of musical heritage contributed to the piss poor vinyl scene but Chesterfield’s Tallbird records restored my faith.

We are planning our holiday for 2022 now that Uncle Joe Biden has re-opened access to America. California is now off the menu and instead we plan to visit New Mexico, a state that we are yet to visit. Biden is going through a rough time at the moment with the withdrawal from Afghanistan upsetting many of the USA’s allies despite being committed to by Trump. The Don continues to flirt with running for president again in 2024. He is still holding rallies and claiming the 2020 election result fraud. Worryingly he now has higher approval ratings than Biden and the Republican Party is still in thrall to him. Boris Johnson will be rooting for the Don. As BJ beats his chest proclaiming Brexit a huge success despite a distinct lack of evidence of any benefits, he knows he will receive support from Trump who encouraged us to leave. Biden is lukewarm on Brexit to say the least, rightly concerned on negative impact to the Good Friday agreement and the Irish economy.

It’s taken an age to write this blog. I think COVID lethargy has given me writers block. I hope to get back to writing more often. We have tickets to see Richard Thompson at the end of the month so I hope to review.