Goin’ back to New Orleans

2024 will be a significant year in a number of ways. Hopefully it will see the end of 14 years of Tory government. This miserable period has seen no less than five Prime Ministers! David Cameron, Theresa May, Boris Johnson, Liz Truss and Rishi Sunak. The British public have been subjected to almost continuous austerity. The austerity programme included reductions in welfare spending, the cancellation of school building programs, reductions in local government funding, and an increase in VAT. Spending on the police, courts and prisons was also reduced. This was (allegedly) a reaction to the worldwide banking crisis of 2008. It was justified as David Cameron and his Chancellor George Osbourne said the UK could face financial ruin without it. I don’t remember other countries taking such draconian measures. The Conservatives, who proudly badge themselves as the party of low taxation currently, preside over the highest tax burden since 1948! The other legacy the Tories have bestowed upon us is Brexit. This is the worst thing I have ever known, our economy has still not recovered. Thousands have businesses have gone bust, prices are soaring, finding care workers is getting harder by the day…..I could rant on and on but I would only succeed in making myself angrier. I honestly believe that a fear of foreigners persuaded many people to vote for Brexit. The idea that European immigrants are taking our jobs is laughable. Businesses in the hospitality industry cannot find staff, Tons of fresh produce is wasted as there is no one willing to take jobs harvesting crops. The NHS struggles to recruit health professionals and the care sector is in dire straits due to labour shortages. Boris Johnson and his chums failed to mention that this was widely predicted as he paraded around in his Brexit bus.

On a happier, and a more personal note, Pat and I are taking early retirement. I finish on April 5th and Pat is leaving in July. We have no firm plans other than embracing the next chapter in our lives. Whatever we do, it is sure to include music and travel.

The other major event planned for this year is Caitlin’s wedding in September. I feel for Callum who will be constantly asked his opinion on things that we men couldn’t give a shit about and berated when he doesn’t respond with unbridled enthusiasm!!

The start of the year was dominated by the 60th birthday present that Pat gave me. I was shocked to find out she had booked us to go to Mardi Gras in New Orleans! This was something I had wanted to do since first visiting the city in 1990 or thereabouts. I spent the opening weeks of the year searching the internet for the best dive bars, restaurants and checking for any gigs. I was in regular contact with Marko, who was meeting us there, to compare notes on things to do.

Take Me to the Mardi Gras (youtube.com)

We stayed overnight at an airport hotel before flying out to New Orleans. It always feels like the holiday has begun when you relax with a meal and a few beers the night before flying. We weren’t flying until 1.0 pm so we had time for breakfast in the hotel before heading to the airport. We had taken advantage of Virgin Atlantic’s Twilight check-in so we had got rid of our cases the night before. We just had to go through airport security. This service is the future! I read while Pat had a browse around Duty Free, we then went for a leisurely pre-flight drink before boarding. We flew to Atlanta, Georgia. The flight was on time and getting through US Immigration was surprisingly quick. We had a four hour layover before our short hop to New Orleans but it was no hassle. We stayed at the Prince Conti Hotel in the French Quarter. We were only half a block off Bourbon Street so pretty damn central. Even though we’d been on the go for 18 hours, we thought it sensible to have a few beers to aid sleep. Our first stop was the Erin Rose which was almost opposite our hotel. I had read about this place when searching for New Orleans dive bars. I wasn’t disappointed. It was busy but we managed to get stools at the bar and enjoyed a decent draft beer. We headed out to look for the hotel that our Niece Steph would be staying at on Royal Street. It was really busy so when we had seen where it was we cut back towards Bourbon Street and had a beer in The Old Absinthe Bar which was a favourite haunt from our first visit to New Orleans. It was surprisingly quiet given how busy it was on Bourbon Street. We had a beer and headed off back to the hotel. We had a nightcap in the hotel bar called The Bombay Lounge. I thought it was a typical hotel bar, anodyne and expensive.

(560) Dr. John – Goin’ Back To New Orleans (Video) – YouTube

We headed out to the French Market café for breakfast on Friday morning. It was a beautiful, warm, sunny February morning! We sat outside. When we ordered the waiter questioned our choice of coffee to drink. There are cocktails on the menu he pointed out. It wasn’t even 10.30 am. We stuck with coffee; he shook his head and left the cocktail menu. There was a live band playing who were pretty damn good, the food was good and so was the coffee! We took a walk through the French Market. It’s an easy place to walk around and good for picking up souvenirs. I wanted to visit Louisiana Music Factory which is a record shop on Frenchman street. Pat took a walk around the ‘hood while I did some serious crate digging. I came away with four albums and, as it was hot outside, we decided to head for a beer. We went To Checkpoint Charlie’s on the corner of Frenchman street and Esplanade Avenue. Now this bar is a dive! The bar was pretty full, mainly with guys. The beer was good and reasonably priced. The toilet was the worst I’ve ever seen; no way could I use it! We headed back on Decatur Street and had another drink in the Tikki bar. This was another place recommended by the dive bar website. I liked it, cheap drinks and friendly conversation. In the afternoon we took the St Charles streetcar. The first part of the journey was by bus as parades had disrupted the streetcar timetable. It was really good to travel through the Garden District and see the beautiful houses. We were told to leave the Streetcar on the way back downtown and catch the bus, instead, we walked down Napoleon Avenue to Magazine Street and had a beer in Miss Ellie’s which is another highly rated dive bar. Beers were $4 which was much cheaper than anywhere in the French Quarter. We took an astonishingly expensive Uber back to our hotel as Steph was arriving that night.

We arranged to meet her in The Bombay Lounge. It was a lot better now we felt refreshed. There were two young women playing, one on guitar and one on Double Bass. They were excellent. Steph arrived and it was great to catch up. We took her in the Erin Rose which was far more crowded than the previous night. We looked down Bourbon Street which was absolutely chaotic. After a meal, we walked down Royal Street and cut back to Bourbon to hang out in Laffite’s Blacksmith shop. This bar was built in the 1700’s and is allegedly one of the most haunted in the USA. I don’t believe in ghosts so the spirit I was interested in was the Vodka in my Screwdriver. Man, you definitely get a good pour in Laffite’s!

Marko and Jeannie arrived Saturday morning. We all arranged to meet at their favourite breakfast restaurant Fleur de Lys. There was a long line outside and I was glad that our friends had arrived earlier than us so were near the front. We got a table upstairs. We ordered breakfast; the waitress asked what we all wanted to drink. It was 10.0 am. Marko ordered a Screwdriver. Jeannie and Pat followed suit. Not wanting to feel left out, I ordered a Bloody Mary, the first I’ve ever had. This set the tone for the rest of our holiday, the waiter in the French Market café had called it right. Steph arrived and got ‘on it’ with us. The Food was superb. In the afternoon Marko took me to see Myers, the hat guy. Unfortunately his shop was closed, which was probably a blessing as I would definitely have bought a hat even though the prices were steep! Stephanie was staying on Royal Street her hotel was a block away from the Hotel Monteleone. Jeannie said they had a revolving carousel bar in there. We went in for cocktails. I was wearing an Everton shirt with No. 9 Ferguson on the back so I felt at home with the classy hotel guests. We enjoyed ludicrously expensive cocktails, life was good. We had tickets to see a show at Tipitinas on Saturday night; this was a long held ambition of mine. To cut a long, and very frustrating, story short we never made it to the show. Uber or Lyft wanted $60 for the 2.5 mile journey. We walked all over downtown stopping in at bars while we waited for cabs that never arrived. Mardi gras parades were playing havoc with Taxis and buses. We ended up having dinner in a restaurant called Juan’s flying burrito. With a name like that, what self-respecting music fan could turn down the offer of Cajun inspired Mexican food??

Once we realised that we wouldn’t get to Tipitinas, everyone relaxed and had a laugh and a few drinks. I asked for the bill and left my card. The waitress didn’t come back so I went to pay at the bar. Our waitress apologised profusely and comped us the meal. Result!! We headed back to the French Quarter and the Erin Rose.

Sunday morning we headed to Café Du Monde for Coffee and Beignets. I love this place. The coffee is delicious and the Beignets are sublime.

I asked the waitress if I could have more sugar for the Beignets but the irony was lost on her!

We walked through the French Market and I bought a hat. Not cheap but I paid considerably less than I would have at Myers, the hat guy.

We stopped at Laffite’s for a bathroom break and the obligatory Screwdriver. I was starting to get what healthy people mean when they stress the need to get plenty of vitamin C

We had a walk up Bourbon Street before Marko, Jeannie, Pat and I headed to The Commander’s Palace for lunch. We ate at K Paul’s on our last visit to New Orleans; this iconic venue has now sadly closed. The Commanders Palace was always the next on my list so I was really looking forward to it.

We arrived early so we crossed the road to check out the cemetery. Unfortunately, it was closed so we headed to the end of the block to watch the parade. Perhaps I am scarred by watching carnival parades when I was young, but I can’t really get excited by a daytime event. I must admit though that the version we saw was infinitely superior to the ones I witnessed in my youth. I love the sound of the marching bands. The loud drums and horns are awesome; I’m becoming the Tuba’s biggest fan! Pat and I stood back to watch. At the front was a black guy with his two young boys. He got his kids a prime spot to catch the goodies then stepped back a few yards where he could keep an eye on them. He then sparked up a fat old joint, Mardi gras baby!

The Commanders Palace was out of this world. We started with cocktails in the bar before being shown through into the dining room. Marko told the Maître d that I was celebrating my impending retirement. I got to wear the chef’s hat. The food was awesome! The service was out of this world. I can’t wait to return

That night, we had grandstand tickets for the Bacchus parade. We picked Steph up and headed for St Charles Street. When we eventually located our grandstand, we were told that the previous parade was running late so we would have to wait. Pat, Steph and I found a hotel bar to get a beer and watch the First Quarter of the Super bowl. We got back to take our seats and watch the parade. Apparently, actor Kevin Dillon reigned as Bacchus in the parade. I’ve never heard of him so didn’t notice him. I loved the marching bands and some of the floats were awesome. We were loaded down with beads and other stuff thrown from the floats. After a few hours, we’d seen enough so Pat and I headed back to the French Quarter. I heard Pat shouting at the top of her voice. Some guy had tried to dip her handbag. Fortunately, she noticed and her shouting caused him and his gang to back off!

Pat, Steph and I went to Curio on Royal Street. Steph hadn’t eaten so she ordered a bunch of appetisers which included crunchy Brussels sprouts! Btw, they were awesome. Marko and Jeannie joined us when the parade was finished. We headed to the Erin Rose to try out their frozen Irish coffee’s. They’re the future!! We walked Steph back to her hotel before turning in after a most excellent day.

Monday was Steph’s last day in New Orleans. We got an Uber to Tipitinas. I wanted to buy the Mardi gras 2024 Tie dye tee shirt. A guy let us in and chatted with us. I bought a bunch of tee shirts and, although I’m still yet to see a gig there, at least I can say I have been to Tipitinas. We headed for Magazine Street and Peaches records. It hadn’t opened so we went next door to Miss Ellie’s where I enjoyed a breakfast Screwdriver! Peaches records was a little disappointing. Prices were steep in general but I did pick up a couple of albums for a decent price and also bought a ludicrously expensive compilation of Brass band music. We headed further down Magazine Street and chose The Rum House for lunch. This place was busy! We had a great meal and some decent cocktails. I really enjoyed talking to Steph rather than exchanging WhatsApp messages. We checked out a couple of vintage shops before getting an Uber back to the French Quarter. Steph headed to the airport to fly back to LA. It was great to see her and sad to see her leave.

We had a parade booked for Monday night but Pat and I had seen enough. Marko and Jeannie watched. Pat and I had a beer in the hotel bar, dropped into the Erin Rose and then headed to Kerry’s Irish Bar on Decatur Street. I like this no frills bar. There was a guy playing guitar and singing and he was pretty damn good. Marko and Jeanne joined us when the parade finished. We headed down Decatur Street and had a meal in a place I can’t remember. We headed for Laffite’s for Screwdrivers, Man I love that place. Frozen Irish coffees at The Erin Rose provided a fitting end to a great day.

Tuesday was the official Mardi gras day. Pat and I headed to Fleur de Lys for breakfast. Once again, it was excellent. Marko and Jeanne were queuing to get in when we left. We walked down Decatur Street and picked up some coffee to take home. I tried, unsuccessfully, to get a hat box at the French Market. It was a beautiful day so we walked to Jackson Square to look at the awesome cathedral and watch the gathering Mardi gras hordes parading. We went To Pirates Alley and enjoyed cocktails before meeting Marko and Jeanne. We walked around the French Quarter enjoying the Mardi gras vibe. We had a last Screwdriver at Laffite’s before taking a walk up Bourbon Street to get a last drink in The Erin Rose.

Marko and Jeanne got a cab to the airport. It was fantastic to see them I felt truly humbled that they came To New Orleans to help me celebrate my 60th birthday.

On our last night in New Orleans we headed to the Hotel bar. The girl at the door was very rude, not wanting to let us in if we hadn’t booked a table. We ignored her and had a drink at the bar. We had a drink in the Erin Rose but it was chaotic. We headed to Kerry’s on Decatur Street; Bourbon Street looked like Dante’s 9th circle of hell! Kerry’s was pretty full and there was no live music. We had a few drinks in there and talked about the highlights of our trip. Everywhere was really busy with it being ‘Fat Tuesday’ so I booked a table in the Hotel bar and headed back there. The girl who was so rude earlier ended up as our waitress. We had waited 90 minutes for our food and I had to go to the bar to order drinks. I asked to see the Manager. I don’t like complaining, I know how hard staff have to work, but tonight stretched my patience to breaking point. The food arrived and was absolutely superb. We were comped the meal which was a gracious gesture.

The next morning, we had breakfast then headed for the airport. Pat said to me ‘we need to come back don’t we?’  I couldn’t agree more. This was our third visit to New Orleans and it gets better each time. Spending time with Marko and Jeanne was fantastic. Stephanie joining us was an unexpected bonus. I hope that Caitlin and Callum will come with us the next time we visit. I know that they will love it!

I retire next week. I have worked for the same company for 44 years. I was 16 years old when I first walked through the gates. I have had many different jobs and worked on many different Projects. The only memories that I will treasure are of the many wonderful people I have met through work. Some people have had a profound influence on the way I think and behave. When I first met Alwyn Foster I called him sir, Sir…Sir??? He shouted! There are no fucking Sirs in this world son, Fosters the name, Alwyn fucking Foster! Mike Salmon was the best boss I ever had. He taught me so much about people and told me stories about his time in New York that made me desperate to visit. Tom Scott and Bill Gallagher were proper Shipbuilders; I would have done anything that they asked of me.

I have no grand plans for retirement. I would love to travel more but I won’t have the money to do all I would like to. One thing for sure, music will be at the centre of everything I do.

Caitlin and Callum get married in September. I hope they will be as happy as Pat and I.

We will surely see a new government this year. Unfortunately, Keir Starmer’s Labour party are just Tory lite. They won’t reverse Brexit, they will continue to privatise the NHS by stealth and they will quietly ditch green policies.

To end on a positive note, we have already got a good number of gigs booked for the year. We have also got a week booked in West Yorkshire, a place that we both love. Steph and Malachy are moving to Kingston, New York. Their new place is only 15 miles from Woodstock and less than two hours away from Manhattan. I’m already starting to plan a trip…………………….

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